Kinetic Garment Construction. Remarks on the Foundations of Pattern Cutting
Fashion designers are presented with a range of different methods for pattern
cutting, and the interest in this field has grown rapidly over the past few years. This
growth is both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject
in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting
in their creative practices.
Though a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the
main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately
based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal
and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix.
As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods
connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and
functional perspectives.
This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting
that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic
method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related
methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric
and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is
basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction.
Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and
in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and
method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by
cutting and draping fabrics on live models.
Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construc-
tion theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechani-
cal points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This method-
ology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction,
and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that
are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the
outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the
proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional
possibilities in dress.
Tags
construction kinetic garment textile design applied fine performing arts university of boras sweden
Queries
Applied Fine Performing Arts - Sweden - University of Boras Applied Fine Performing Arts - Sweden Applied Fine Performing Arts catalog - mediathek catalog - network catalog - Artists catalog - HGK catalog - HGKplus
Full spec
- DateAdded
- 2021-08-12T12:12:17Z
- DateModified
- 2021-08-12T12:17:04Z
- Key
- P63MRCZA
- LibraryCatalog
- http://hb.diva-portal.org
- Rights
- Open Closed
- ThesisType
- PhD
- University
- University of Boras